4.28.2009
10 Things I (Colleen) Miss
1. Cold drinking water
2. Electricity 24 hours a day
3. My friends and connecting with them on a regular basis
4. Chocolate
5. My memory foam mattress topper
6. Western style toilets
7. Not having to concentrate when someone speaks to me
8. Being able to use the water that comes out of the faucet to brush my teeth with (you have no idea until you can't!)
9. Clothes that are laundered with a washing machine and dryer
10. Anytime access to the internet
there are many more, these just seem to keep popping up!
My new friend Chonli
This afternoon I was told that there were complaints from the younger folks that I wasn't spending anytime with them. I think I've opened Pandora's box with this Hokey Pokey thing. So I had about 30 kids on the playground this morning doing the Hokey Pokey (and yes, there are photos!!!!). The topper, though, was that my new best friend Chonli came back to school and joined us. It was hysterical!!!
After school Chonli insisted that we come by her house for some traditional Nepali hospitality which consisted of chicken that was still wearing half his feathers and yes, you guessed it, good ol' Nepali wine (aka grain alcohol)!!!! And this ol' bird would not let me go without finishing my whole glass!!! No wonder she got out the drum and some other instrument involving a reed-like thing and some string and started singing which, of course, led to dancing which, of course, led to ME dancing!!! Or whatever semblance of dancing you can do in a cramped room with two other women dancing with you!! And, yes, you guessed it, there are photos AND a video!!!!
That's it for now. Hope you're enjoying reading half as much as I'm enjoying my experiences here!
4.27.2009
Charikot - April 27th
As of the last posting we had just arrived in Charikot and had our introduction to Surya, the headmaster of a new private school here in Charikot. Our first week of teaching was actually focused on teaching the teachers since the kids were not officially back to school. Plus, because of one of Nepal's famous road strikes, books had not arrived from Kathmandu. But Surya sees a lot of value in having us spend time with the teachers because they will be here long after we are gone. Most of them speak very little English themselves and are teaching the young children. And they haven't actually received training from a native English speaker. Instead they have been taught by Nepalis who learned English and many mistakes just get handed from teacher to student. For example, we are told by one English teacher that they were taught to pronounce a "p" as an "f".
I also love the fact that Surya has invited teachers from other schools in the district to participate. We have two gentlemen who join us for two days. They were taught to speak English phonetically so Colleen and I find ourselves having to "wing" a curriculum to teach English phonetically. It's actually not that hard (for us) because it really consists of teaching sounds and then going through some example words. However, they really struggle with some of the sounds, just as I have found it difficult to learn Nepali because there are some sounds we use that they don't and vice versa. But it's very rewarding when these teachers tell you how much they have learned just by speaking to native English speakers.
We also learn that we have really helped Surya's reputation in the community. This is the first week that his school is open and he tells us that he already had several new enrollments from families that heard he has American's volunteering at his school. Apparently this shows the community that Surya is "connected" so must be providing a great education for their children. I love that just our presence is an asset to this man who is so committed to bringing quality education to the more remote villages of Nepal.
Friday was a holiday here in Nepal. It is the first anniversary of democracy so school is closed. Colleen and I just enjoy the beautiful mountain views and some R&R here at the hotel.
On Saturday we are invited to Surya's home for the mother's day celebration. There is a small ceremony at Surya's mother-in-law's home first which consists of her two daughters and one son blessing her and presenting her with gifts. Surya's niece then performs the same ceremony for Surya's sister-in-law and wife. Then the fun begins because now we are presented with the same traditional Nepali food that the mother-in-law received. First it's an egg that has been hard-boiled and then fried and then touched by pretty much everyone in the room :). Colleen and I are presented our eggs on a plate with a spoon which is really cute because everyone else uses their hands. We also try a little buffalo meat (which is quite tasty!). Then we are presented with curdled milk and a traditional Nepali wine which can best be described as grain alcohol on steroids. We give it the ol' college try but try as we might we just can't down a glass of curdled milk with a grain alcohol chaser!! We'd make bad Nepalis!
Yesterday was our first day with the children. We attempt to teach nursery rhymes and songs to the nursery school kids but are met with a bunch of blank stares. No surprise there since we are singing in a language they've never heard and I don't care how many farm animal sounds you make, they just don't get it! We finally find success with the Class 3 (third-grade) kids who actually know quite a bit of English although they are very shy to speak. However, I find that by asking them to help me learn Nepali, they open right up. At first it's just a few words but by the end of class they are looking through books in English to find words that they can translate into Nepali.
Today can best be described by me as my idea of a perfect day. I get to school and immediately my friends from Class 3 want to help me to learn more Nepali. Then I go downstairs to teach songs but this time to Kindergarten thru Class 3 (these ages at least are able to mimic what I say). I teach them "If You're Happy and You Know It" first and they do a really good job of singing along plus they love the clapping and feet stomping. The show stopper was definitely the "Hokey Pokey" though. I had them all on their feet, "shaking it all about" and they just loved it! There is absolutely nothing better than the sound of children's laughter and, for me, the ability to connect to these children who don't understand me and who I don't understand but we still had so much fun together. However, let me tell you, doing the Hokey Pokey 10 times in a row is tiring!!!! I'm out of breath and these kids want to keep going! I then go upstairs where Surya has the nursery age kids (about age 3) in his office dancing to Nepali music. It is one of the cutest things I've ever seen and, of course, today I don't have my camera!!!! But they made me smile so much my face hurt!!! After lunch I spent time with Class 3 again but then Surya called me in and introduced me to my new student who will start tomorrow. She is 62 years old and started in school for the first time 3 years ago. She has advanced to Level 5 but in a government school so has not had the chance to learn English. She is now running for Parliament (isn't democracy great?) and wants to learn English. She has seen Colleen and me in town and we've even greeted her but now she wants to greet us in English. So she starts tomorrow and that just made my day!!!!
Sorry this is so long folks. Had a lot to fill you in on and haven't even covered everything but I'm tired of typing and I'm sure you're tired of reading so more later!!!!!
4.19.2009
Charikot
We began our four hour car ride to Charikot at 6:00 am this morning. Previously we hadn't planned to leave until 9:00 am however, there was a strike in one of the villages we needed to pass through and so we had to beat the villagers to the road!
After arriving we had lunch and then met the Principal at the private school we will be teaching at. His English is really good (by Nepali standards). He took us to meet the teachers at his school - which is an English Boarding School so all classes are taught in English (albeit broken). The students not only learn Nepali but English, Math, Social Studies, American Literature [even I hated that] and Science. Surya [roll the r = sur-i-a] has been a principal for 17 years and was telling us how in the early 2,000's before the Maoists were working as part of the Government forced him to close his private school. They did not like the fact that students coming out of private school were getting better jobs and had a "better" education than the Government schools. He said they threatened to kill him and burn his building if he did not shut down thus, he caved. One of his colleagues building was burned and they guy was actually in the building when they lit it on fire. It hasn't been until the past few years they have been allowed to re-open the Private schools.
After meeting the teachers at Surya's school, we got on the back of motorbikes and went over to the village of Dolaka to meet the Head Master of the Government school where we can also help out. It's about 10-15 minutes on motorbike or 45-60 minute walk from where we are staying where as the Private school is about a 15 minute walk [mind you all walks are up and/or down very steep inclines].
Once we arrived we has tea with Surya's family and then were given a walking tour of the village. We had a chance to see the Government school as well. Shortly after that we headed back to Charikot to shower and get settled for dinner.
We explained to Top and his wife [Top is the owner of the place we are staying] that for these first few days we'll have teacher "workshops" where we'll work with the teachers on phonetics because school hasn't officially started yet and this will be a good way to help them improve their English - a lesson that will last far longer than our four weeks here.
Now as you can imagine that after a day like that; we were once again thoroughly exhausted and in bed by 10:00 pm again...good thing school doesn't start until 10:00 am tomorrow!
Trekking
On April 13th we left the hotel at 8:00 am to begin the three hour drive to the beginning of our trek. The road out of the Kathmandu Valley was quite crowded as it actually runs from Tibet all the way to India and is the main trade route for any and everything coming in to Nepal from India. It's also quite interesting in that we literally drove down a mountain for the first two hours or so.
After lunch [where we were the object of attention from a few Nepali children - I'm hoping Kim will write about that] we began our trek ... and after climbing for about 20 minutes we turned around to look down at the road we'd began our trek from. We could look down because we damn near climbed straight up; (think 12% or HIGHER incline on a treadmill) and did not stop climbing at that incline for about four hours! Talk about one helluva cardio workout...the terrain of the trail was compromised mostly of rock and dirt however, the view was of beautiful mountain sides and many of them.
We set camp in Jayapuri, right in the middle of a small village. Funny thing is that we are here to experience Nepal and it's beauty (at least for the trekking portion) however; the Nepalese are just as curious and interested in us Westerners trekking through their villages. With Kim and I being so fair skinned and with light eyes, we are quite the attention getters...given that Mads, Claire and the crew are fluent in Nepali communicating and answering their questions wasn't an issue.
I have still have three more days of trekking to write about but am a little behind on that so I will go ahead and post the stuff I do have typed up and get to the rest of the trek days as soon as I can. I am purposely leaving out a few details so that we have stories to share once we get home. Thanks.
Arriving
The flight from Doha to Kathmandu was pretty uneventful until we started our decent… Kim pointed me to the window and what I saw was this little tiny green man with fangs and wings –okay, just kidding.
The view was absolutely breathtaking…through the top of the clouds was a majestic view of the Himalayas. The jagged peaks are capped and there was so much detail it’s hard to describe. I took a few photos to try and capture the serenity of this moment however; something tells me the photos just won’t do it justice.
As we arrived; we went through customs, obtained our Visa’s and collected our luggage and while doing so, witnessed “complete and utter chaos”. [Mads (pronounced Mass) and Claire warned us but who knew?!]
People were lined up in masses looking for “their people”, there were taxi drivers (and by taxi, I mean a tiny skittle of a car) lobbying for your fare and others with signs to pick up from agencies or trek companies. Claire hadn’t arrived just yet but after a few minutes she was there smiling; with Budda blessed scarves in hand to grace us with.
The drive to our hotel was interesting…the steering wheel is on the right hand side but you drive on the left [ever wonder why that is?] and there are no “lanes”. If there is an open space and you can fit through it, have at it. Once you get used to the idea of traffic coming at you from every angle and within three inches of you, it’s just a taxi ride. Oddly enough, that didn’t bother me.
This truly is third-world and reminded me of the really impoverished parts of Jamaica. The streets are crowded with a compilation of people, cars, motorbikes and dogs. There are small shops aligned in rows and extremely close to the road. Many of them looked like stacked garages with items from top to bottom and no room to move – not quite sure how that works yet. We passed food shops along the way, some with vegetables, some with de-feathered chickens then whole fish(es) lined up for sale [yes, in the hot heat, on a table with insects and all flying about…].
We also passed a funeral in process. There was a procession of people on foot; a body wrapped in a shroud was being carried high above four men’s shoulders. In the front and back of the body were people carrying something that’s burning…I’m sure it’s incense with who knows what powers to cleanse, purify, and other sorts of spiritual things to assist the soul with it’s journey.
We arrive at the hotel to drop our luggage and then head to breakfast with Mads and Clarie at “Mike’s breakfast”. Now that our bellies are full and we have completed the 23 hour journey to get here; Kim and I head back to the hotel to get some rest and a shower as in a few hours, we’ll head out for a little stroll and find some dinner.
4.11.2009
Doha
So it's 11:45 am EST and Kim and I arrive in Doha, Qatar (ki-tar). We just woke up but it's already night time here! Rewind: yesterday as we left for the airport on the taxi ride to Dulles our nerves woke up… the idea of spending six weeks in a third-world country has finally kicked in. We were able to tame the nerves by enjoying a glass of wine (of course) and some mushroom risotto in the lounge while waiting for boarding to start.
The experience of flying business class on Qatar is one in and of its own… Kim told Ray "now that we're settled in our apartment" – and if we compare it to NYC, its damn near that big. After we relaxed in the lounge we headed to the gate to board the plane. Business class had its own walkway so there was no mingling with the other passengers. [Be quiet, if you were going to live in a country that barely has running water, let alone any that might be warm, you too might pamper yourself on the way there!] The cabin was very nice, dimly lit with burgundy and tan coloring. Each seat had its own 19" screen TV and a smorgasbord of entertainment to choose from. After the plane took off we had dinner – and more wine – and then settled in for a little sleep. As we were falling asleep we realized we had only flown 519 miles – oh my. We both fully arise around 8:00 am EST for breakfast and then just two hours later we're landing. Colleen's nerves have once again kicked in as she realized we are now in a country where people speak a completely different language and we are foreigners.
The nerves settle once we get to the lounge (in Doha) and everyone speaks English (to this point). We've got diet cokes in hand and are patiently waiting a few hours before the 4.5 hour flight to Kathmandu where Kim has assured me- the experience there will be completely different than that here in Doha – yikes.
I know we're not there yet but, had some time and internet access so I thought I'd share part of the journey to get there as well.
A little aside from Kim – I've now discovered another country that I'd like to come back and actually see. If the employees of Qatar Airways are any indication, Qatar is another country of warm and friendly people and never having experienced the Middle East before it's nice to know that Americans are not universally despised. Seeing the world is a great reminder of how, while we may look a little different from each other, we're all the same at heart. It's the reason I love to travel! Oh, and don't watch "Marley and Me" on an airplane unless you don't mind openly sobbing in public!
Until our next post – live with passion!
4.10.2009
H2
We're psyched, running a few errands before we head to the airport for the 14.5 hour flight to Doha, Qatar and then the 4.5 hour flight in to Kathmandu.
Take care everyone!